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BEST of the BEST 2014 | Leisure | Dining: Oaxen Krog

  • Lisa Abend

Like the individuals who created it, New Nordic cuisine is almost always restrained, but at Oaxen Krog (+46.8.551.531.05, www.oaxen.com), chef Magnus Ek imbues that restraint with new levels of refinement. Reopened in Stockholm last year after moving from its former home on a remote island, Oaxen Krog provides a sleekly designed showcase for the chef’s exaltation of the local larder (tasting menus are $250 to $300). Sweetly briny spider crab gets a hit of tartness from whey cream, and chopped veal heart—cooked tableside and already exuding deep umami flavors from its bone-marrow accompaniment—is spruced up with the herbal flavors of green juniper and wildflowers. There are small details—like the vintage Rörstrand cups that Ek’s wife and business partner, Agneta Green, seeks out for the restaurant’s coffee service—that stand out, but mostly, the new incarnation of Oaxen Krog is all about intelligent harmony.