BEST of the BEST 2014 | Leisure | Domestic White Wines: Darioush 2012 Signature Viognier
The Darioush winery on Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail is utterly unique, and not only for of its architecture, which combines a romantic vision of the ancient Persian capital of Persepolis with the streamlined, steel-and-glass vernacular of a contemporary nightclub. These elements reflect the multifaceted personality of the winery’s owner, Darioush Khaledi, a longtime wine enthusiast and collector who emigrated to the United States in the late 1970s from the Shiraz region of Iran. Khaledi’s blending of cultures and tradition with innovative thinking influences not only the building but also the character of the wines, which are classically structured yet extravagant in their flourishes. The Darioush 2012 Signature Viognier (www.darioush.com, $41), for example, is perfumed with mimosa, tangerine blossom, and lemongrass, and its fleshy texture complements its flavors of pear, peach, honeycomb, and candied ginger. Still, this riotous array of sensations combines on the finish to strike a sustained and satisfying chord of gentle acidity.