Bright Lines, Dark Metal

<< Back to Robb Report, Robb Report November 2014

An inventive new aesthetic has permeated fine jewelry design—a penchant for sleek silhouettes defined in dark-finished metals and highlighted with boldly positioned, intriguing stones. These elegantly edgy pieces, which range from intricate, diamond-studded spider earrings to a spiked ruby ring, present even the most precious gemstones in daring, spirited configurations that play on contrasts between darkness and light. 

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Wilfredo Rosado 

Multi-cog necklace made of white gold and 15.5 carats of diamonds, $95,000 (212.223.3460, wilfredorosado.com). 

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Graff 75.92-carat emerald bracelet, price upon request (212.355.9292, graffdiamonds.com): Solange Azagury-Partridge white-gold cuff with triangular-cut diamonds, $114,000 (212.879.9100, solange.co.uk); James de Givenchy for Taffin 18-karat-rose-gold earrings with silver, mandarin garnets, and diamonds, price upon request (by appointment only, 212.421.6222); Bayco ring with an antique oval-cut yellow diamond and white diamonds, $190,000 (800.376.7200, bayco.com).

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David Yurman white-gold-and-titanium cuff set with rubellites and color-change garnets, $145,000 (212.752.4255, davidyurman.com); Jacob & Co. black-and-white-diamond wing earrings set in palladium, $18,600 (212.719.5887, jacobandco.com); Solange Azagury-Partridge lip-shaped gold ring with pink sapphires, $18,200 (212.879.9100, solange.co.uk); James de Givenchy for Taffin platinum-and-diamond ring with a lozenge-cut diamond, price upon request (by appointment only, 212.421.6222); AS29 white-and-black-diamond gold ring, $8,085 (at Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1272, jeffreynewyork.com); Paul Morelli white-and-black-diamond bracelet, $24,000 (215.922.7392, paulmorelli.com).

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Cindy Chao the Art Jewel spider earrings in black-and-white-diamond pavé on 18-karat white gold, $150,000 (+852.9867.2798, cindychao.com).

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Maria Canale for Forevermark white-gold pendant necklace with 15.01 carats of diamonds, $110,500 (at select Neiman Marcus stores, 800.365.7989); Stephen Webster hematite-and-diamond gold ring, $11,000 (310.246.9500, stephenwebster.com); Shaun Leane earrings made of Gemfields Zambian emeralds and diamonds, $45,600 (+44.207.318.3603, shaunleane.com).

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Martin Katz 18-karat-white-gold ring set with a 34.85-carat black diamond and smaller white and black diamonds, $58,000 (310.276.7200, martinkatz.com); Verdura emerald-and-diamond gold ring, $166,500 (212.758.3388, verdura.com); Vhernier diamond-and-jet ring, $18,600 (310.273.2444, vhernier.it); Sylva & Cie. diamond-and-gold ring, $11,125 (213.488.1444, sylvacie.com); Arunashi reverse-set black-diamond-and-ruby ring in titanium, $78,500, and reverse-set tanzanite-and-diamond ring in titanium, $78,500 (310.888.0123); Mizuki gold feather ring with 1.35 carats of black diamonds, $7,460 (212.941.0332, mizukijewelry.com); Hemmerle brown-patinated-copper ring set with a tourmaline and garnets, price upon request (+49.89.24.22.600, hemmerle.com); Deborah Pagani diamond-and-gold double-finger ring, $13,370 (at Barneys New York, 212.826.8900); Fred Leighton’s Cartier black-enamel-and-gold ring with an approximately 7.50-carat rose-cut diamond, price upon request (at Fred Leighton, 212.288.1872); Michael M. Collection 3.10-carat diamond ring in 18-karat white gold, $13,600 (888.563.4910, michaelmcollection.com).

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Marina B diamond necklace with 52 carats of Gemfields Zambian emeralds, $950,000 (212.644.1155, marinab.com); Octium diamond-and-rose-gold ring, $240,000 (212.726.1276, octiumjewelry.com); de Grisogono emerald-and-gold ring coated in black ceramic, $9,600 (212.439.4220, degrisogono.com)

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Pomellato rose-gold bracelets in sapphire, $54,500, ruby, $63,500, and emerald, $89,800 (800.254.6020, pomellato.com); Verdura cuff in black enamel, sapphires, emeralds, pearls, diamonds, and gold, $103,500 (212.758.3388, verdura.com); Kwiat diamond-and-blackened-gold bracelet, $65,200 (212.725.7777, kwiat.com). 

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De Grisogono white-gold ring with amethysts and diamonds, $57,400 (212.439.4220, degrisogono.com); Stephen Webster white-gold earrings with black opals, sapphires, diamonds, and quartz overlay, $12,000 (310.246.9500, stephenwebster.com).

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Antonini diamond-and-white-gold bracelet, $25,740 (305.534.0000, antonini.it); de Grisogono diamond-and-gold ring, coated with black ceramic, $19,400 (212.439.4220, degrisogono.com); Hemmerle black-finished silver earrings set with rhodolites and white gold, price upon request (+49.89.24.22.600, hemmerle.com); James de Givenchy for Taffin ear clips with diamonds set in blackened silver over 18-karat rose gold, price upon request (by appointment only, 212.421.6222).  

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