Bespoke List: 9 Modern Masters Crafting Cutting-Edge Bespoke Jewelry

These designers are creating the planet’s most cutting-edge custom jewelry.

James De Givenchy

Creating an automobile, timepiece travel experience, or wardrobe tailored specifically to your tastes requires professionals of uncommon skill. It also demands an investment of time on your part. To simply your search for the personal touch, we’ve assembled a directory of select purveyors who have mastered the art of the custom-made—this article is a part of the 2017 Robb Report Bespoke List.

James de Givenchy

On the 25th floor of a nondescript midtown Manhattan office building, James de Givenchy has created a sublime living-room-like salon where he discreetly meets his clients for private commissions. The magic begins when he presents a tray of colorful stones—large, juicy-red rubellites and velvety purple amethysts, say—and then closely considers his client’s reaction to see which jewel sparks a response. “It all starts with a stone,” says the 54-year-old, who is known for creating imaginative and colorful jewelry. He advises women on which jewel will embolden their sense of style and directs men on which will dazzle their wives. He often meets with couples to create a special gift to mark a birthday or anniversary, saying, “Men seem to love the sense of discovery when it comes to hunting for the stone, and they love to present the gift.”

Tiffin ring

Tiffin ring  Photo: Courtesy Taffin

Since he established his Taffin salon 21 years ago, Givenchy has maintained a surprisingly intimate experience, despite being recognized as one of today’s most important contemporary designers. Each commission begins with the selection of stones, and then he sketches a design. Once approved, he works closely with his craftsmen to execute the final one-of-a-kind construction. “I’m doing what couturiers once did,” says the French-born designer, referencing his famous uncle Hubert de Givenchy’s business model. “I present my designs and give clients a sense of my aesthetic. My work and the salon inspire a conversation.”

Jessica McCormack

From her art-filled townhouse on London’s Carlos Place, McCormack breathes new life into diamonds with her fashionable designs. She reimagines clients’ old diamonds and sources new top-quality stones to create bespoke commissions from earrings to heart-shaped rings.

Jessica McCormack earrings

Jessica McCormack earrings  Photo: Courtesy Jessica McCormack

Amedeo Scognamiglio

The New York designer creates custom-carved cameos bearing the likeness of a loved one or, more often, a family pet. Once a sketch is rendered, the shell cameo is carved by traditional artisans in Scognamiglio’s hometown of Torre del Greco.

Chopard

Creative director and copresident Caroline Scheufele, known for forging spectacular jeweled animal pieces, welcomes VIP clients to her Geneva design studio to collaborate on elaborate commissions.

Chopard earrings

Chopard earrings  Photo: Courtesy Chopard

McTeigue & McClelland

The design duo creates hand-forged men’s jewelry with iron, gold, and edgy rough stones using old-world jewelry-making techniques. Each commission reveals something personal about the wearer through the style, stones, or discreet symbolism.

McTeigue & McClelland

McTeigue & McClelland  Photo: Courtesy Russell Starr

Pamela Huizenga

From Mexican fire opal and trapiche emeralds to fossilized coral and Montana agate, Huizenga hunts down the most unusual gemstones and shapes them into the custom jewelry designs of your dreams.

Monica Rich Kosann

For the sentimental type, Kosann creates personalized lockets—some emblazoned with vintage diamonds or colorful gemstone designs—fitted to hold pictures, prose, or even a lock of hair.

Jade Trau

Fifth-generation diamantaire Jade Lustig works closely with clients to create (or redesign) engagement rings and wedding bands with a modern sensibility, featuring diamonds in all shapes and sizes.

Bayco

The third-generation jeweler is the source of some of the world’s most collectible gemstones, including rare Colombian emeralds, Burmese rubies, and Ceylon
sapphires. Plus, they can deliver them in custom-made designs that will turn heads.

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