Seven Spirit Bay Wilderness Lodge (+61.8.8979.0281, www.sevenspiritbay.com) offers the only modern accommodations in Arnhem Land. Open since 1989, the 23-habitat resort sits at the region’s northwest edge on the Cobourg Peninsula, a finger of land triply protected as an Aboriginal reserve, a national park, and a wildlife sanctuary. Two-, three-, and four-night packages range from $1,235 to $3,115 AUD ($812 to $2,047 U.S.) per person. Most of the packages include air transport to and from Darwin, all meals, and guided tours. Seven Spirit Bay arranges the Arnhem Land permit.
A daylong visit to Max Davidson’s camp is $695 AUD ($457 U.S.). Longer stays can be booked directly by contacting Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris (+61.8.8927.5240, www.arnhemland-safaris.com).