The World’s Top Watchmakers Debut New Timepieces at SIHH 2014

While Panerai has made strides with in-house movements in recent years, the bulk of its historical offerings and many of its greatest works were made with supplied movements. Such is the case with the Panerai PAM 519 Radiomir 1940 Chronograph (available late this summer for $58,500), which employs a gorgeous Minerva 13-22 chronograph movement. (Minerva is now a sibling company of Montblanc under the Richemont corporate umbrella.) The black-dialed rose-gold version of the PAM 519—which is also available in platino and white-gold versions—subtly recalls some of the great traditional chronographs of years past while retaining just the right amount of the brand’s distinct personality. (www.panerai.com)

The F.P. Journe Elegante (from $11,500) collection is the mechanical-watchmaking expert’s first for women. The watchmaker cites practicality and an energy-saving design as its reason for creating these quartz watches (which will be available in May), but the real reason may be the firm’s delight in running contrary to the rest of the industry, which is increasingly offering mechanical movements for women. (www.fpjourne.com)

The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements (starting at about $147,600 and arriving late this fall), the latest collection of Vacheron Constantin’s acclaimed Métiers d’Art artisanal watches, draws inspiration from various decorative motifs. These new watches are beautifully executed, with delicate engravings on each movement. In particular, the Ottoman-themed piece in gold lattice and pearls evokes some of the great export pocket watches that Swiss watchmakers once produced for the pashas of the Ottoman Empire. (www.vacheron-constantin.com)

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