Seeds of Change: Going Green

  Dalat Palace Golf ClubSketched by a French architect in 1922, the Dalat Palace Golf Club did not begin to take shape until a decade later, when the last emperor of Vietnam spurred the course’s development. Today, this layout in the former colonial hill station of Dalat (a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City) […]

Seeds of Change

I first saw the Dalat Palace Golf Club in 1994, when my newlywed Vietnamese wife and I cycled past a long string of peasants in conical hats, planting grass by hand. “For what?” my wife asked the foreman, who stood on the other side of bamboo fencing. “For this,” the man told her. And then […]

Ultimate City Escapes: Saigon Rising

From the rooftop bar­ of the Caravelle Hotel, Vietnam War correspondents routinely watched U.S. Air Force jets streaking over enemy strongholds on the outskirts of Saigon, dropping bombs and leaving pyrotechnic displays in their wakes. “There were dozens of us up there, like aristocrats viewing Borodino from the heights,” wrote Michael Herr in his 1977 […]