JOHN MARIANI

Dining: Full Cirque

When Le Cirque opened in 1974, it received immediate criticism. Its proprietor, Sirio Maccioni, was not “democratic” in his seating practices—ensuring that the best tables went mainly to the beautiful, the famous, and the powerful—and, as The New York Times reported, its fare was more bistro-type than fine French cuisine. At the same time, Le […]

Leisure: Agony of the Ecstasy

In the world of Michelin three-star restaurants, there is much distinction, but little surprise. Not that the cuisine is homogeneous from one venue to the next, or the decor cut from the same cloth. In this rarefied world, grand luxury takes myriad forms, from the neoclassic boardroom air of Taillevent in the heart of Paris […]