REGINA SCHRAMBLING

Front Runners October 2015: Smoke, Not Fire

Castillo de Canena’s Cold-Smoked Arbequina Olive Oil (castillodecanena.com) proves that where there’s smoke, there’s flavor. This family-owned business, which has operated in Spain’s Andalusia region since 1780, infuses its sensational Arbequina olive oil over smoldering oak, birch, and beech woods for 6 hours. The oil takes on a subtly smoky aroma and flavor that mingles […]

Haute Pastrami

Inventive variations on the deli classic are stacking up coast to coast. The most tempting dish at Bâtard, one of Manhattan’s most exciting new restaurants, sounds like something on the menu at a surrealist’s deli. Chef Marcus Glocker cooks octopus sous vide with 15 spices—including smoked paprika, three kinds of pepper, garlic, and mustard seeds—then […]

A Lifelong Pledge

Ben Zaricor collects American history and identity, in fabric form. He owns one flag that has not just been to the moon—it was “postmarked” on the lunar surface with tire tracks. He owns two banners that flew on the presidential limousine on the day President John F. Kennedy was assassinated in Dallas. Most impressive, he […]

Culinary Masters Competition 2013: A New Course

Like Jean-Georges Vongerichten before him, Alex Stupak is moving a classic cuisine in a fresh direction. It is no exaggeration to state that Jean-Georges Vongerichten revolutionized French cooking in the United States. The nouvelle movement had already lightened up the classics by the time he became the chef at Lafayette in the late 1980s, but […]

Culinary Masters Competition 2013: Classic Focus

In San Diego native William Bradley, Thomas Keller discovers the great French chefs’ traditions transplanted to American soil. Thomas Keller is the most renowned, most revered, and most imitated chef in the country. His flagship restaurant, the French Laundry in the Napa Valley, is the culinary community’s Mecca, and its Manhattan spin-off, Per Se, consistently […]

Culinary Masters Competition 2012: A Tip of the Toque

Eric Ripert makes the extraordinary look effortless. Throughout his 18-year tenure as executive chef of Le Bernardin in Manhattan, Ripert has seen the restaurant consistently receive four stars from The New York Times. Michelin has been just as generous, bestowing its top rating of three stars on Le Bernardin year after year—an achievement made all […]

Culinary Masters Competition 2012: Advantage Ohio

As one of the original chefs to combine French techniques with local and seasonal ingredients—a practice that results in dazzling dishes with robust flavor—Charlie Palmer is one of the most influential pioneers of new American cuisine. His first restaurant, Aureole, which opened in a townhouse on Manhattan’s Upper East Side in 1988, instantly defined a […]

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