SCOTT HAAS

Sayonara, Copenhagen

Chef René Redzepi prepares to raise the curtain on Noma Tokyo.  The question has intrigued the food world since last May, when chef René Redzepi announced that, starting in January, he would relocate Noma—perhaps the most acclaimed restaurant in the world—from its permanent location in Copenhagen to Tokyo for an extended pop-up engagement. What would the […]

Dining: A New Wrinkle

For nearly a decade, Thomas Keller was content to remain in Yountville, Calif., where, as chef and owner of the French Laundry, he had forged his reputation as the finest American-born chef. He did not need a successful New York restaurant to confirm his culinary excellence, and he still does not. Keller does have some […]

Dining: Back to Basics

Few chefs remain on top of the Paris restaurant scene for long, but Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon have proved their staying power. Earlier this year, both opened establishments that serve simple dishes in a casual atmosphere, though neither has turned his back on haute cuisine. On the contrary, these chefs have adopted a stripped-down […]

Dining: Five-Star Meals by Mail

Chef Alain Ducasse, he of the six Michelin stars, defines great cuisine as “60 percent ingredients and 40 percent technique.” Assuming his equation is correct, this means that even the most talented home chefs can never be as good as Ducasse and his ilk—unless they can get their hands on the same ingredients that the […]

Leisure: Italy Unspoiled

Italy’s culture, once the inspiration for generations of poets, is in danger of becoming homogenized by the rest of the Western world. Indeed, the Chianti region of Tuscany has been nicknamed “Chiantishire” to acknowledge the many English who have relocated there, and mass tourism has stripped Venice, Florence, and Rome of most of their senses […]

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