FrontRunners: Bouley Rises Again

When David Bouley closed his popular Manhattan bakery four years ago, he did so with the intent of reinventing the establishment as part bakery and part fine dining restaurant. Factors including the September 11 attacks delayed his project’s fruition until this past May, when the chef opened the Bouley Bakery and Market (212.608.5829) across the […]

Dining: A New Wrinkle

For nearly a decade, Thomas Keller was content to remain in Yountville, Calif., where, as chef and owner of the French Laundry, he had forged his reputation as the finest American-born chef. He did not need a successful New York restaurant to confirm his culinary excellence, and he still does not. Keller does have some […]

Dining: Back to Basics

Few chefs remain on top of the Paris restaurant scene for long, but Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon have proved their staying power. Earlier this year, both opened establishments that serve simple dishes in a casual atmosphere, though neither has turned his back on haute cuisine. On the contrary, these chefs have adopted a stripped-down […]

FrontRunners: The North of France

Although Iceland is not readily associated with fine French cuisine, in this remote North Atlantic island nation, amid exquisite lava fields and gorgeous snowcapped mountains, gastronomes can find their version of joie de vivre. At the Gallery Restaurant inside Hotel Holt (+354.552.5700,, a Relais & Châteaux property, chef Birgir Ólafsson uses the freshest Icelandic […]

Dining: Five-Star Meals by Mail

Chef Alain Ducasse, he of the six Michelin stars, defines great cuisine as “60 percent ingredients and 40 percent technique.” Assuming his equation is correct, this means that even the most talented home chefs can never be as good as Ducasse and his ilk—unless they can get their hands on the same ingredients that the […]

The Best of the Best 2003: Dining – Taillevent

Despite the formal atmosphere of Taillevent, which features Louis XVI decor and a phalanx of tuxedoed waiters, the staff of the Paris landmark conveys a genuine sense of warmth.   “Taillevent is more of a club than a restaurant,” says the restaurant’s owner, Jean-Claude Vrinat. “The word ‘customers’ is banished; visitors or friends is the […]

The Best of the Best 2003: Dining – AZ

As indicated by a résumé that includes a doctorate in biochemistry from Princeton and a cooking stint with madcap chef Bobby Flay, chef Patricia Yeo is both brainy and passionate. At her restaurant AZ in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, she deconstructs classic dishes and puts them back together to bring out the essence of the flavors. […]

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