It would be accurate to say that Peter Bignell runs a “green” distillery, but somehow that doesn’t quite capture it.
For more than a decade, Bignell’s company—Belgrove Distillery in Tasmania, Australia—has produced whiskey from rye he grows himself. This is unusual: Most operations have their grains shipped to them at a considerable carbon cost. What’s more, he powers his stills and tractors with a biofuel he makes out of used cooking oil from a fish-and-chips place next to his farm. All his water is from rain traps. He built his own still from scratch. He dug his peat bog out behind his brother’s house. For special releases, he sometimes burns dried sheep dung to smoke the whiskey, and he feeds the same sheep the mash left over from distillation (giving an unfortunate visual to the idea of “closed loop”).
Bignell’s small operation may be the most sustainable distillery in the world. “The only significant material I bring to the farm is waste cooking oil,” he says, “and the main product to leave is whiskey.”
When we think of climate change, we tend to envision coal power plants, government policy and fires in the Brazilian Amazon. We tend not to think about alcohol—one incontrovertible truth of the climate crisis is that it’s a serious bummer and is fairly disharmonious with happy hour. Nonetheless, the facts are the facts: According to a Beverage Industry Environmental Roundtable report, a 750mL bottle of spirits generates some six pounds of CO2, placing each two-ounce cocktail’s carbon footprint at a staggering half pound each.
In response, there is a movement sweeping the industry, not just of incremental improvements but of radical change at all levels. Rhodora, in Brooklyn, is a relaxed neighborhood wine bar designed from the ground up to produce zero waste. The closed-loop distributor ecoSPIRITS, launching in the US later this year, has a goal of eliminating single-use glass bottles in the spirits and wine industry. In Southern California, Misadventure & Co. makes vodka out of old muffins and other baked goods that would otherwise be thrown away.
This fundamental shift is exemplified by Copal Tree Distillery, in Belize. All the sugarcane for its rum, Copalli, is grown on-site, and only rainwater is used to ferment, distill and proof. The spent sugarcane is repurposed as fuel to heat the still, the exhaust gets treated to remove particulates and the ash fertilizes the fields. And because its founders understand that poverty also leads to environmental destruction, the distillery and its farm hire local residents, pay its workers three times the national average and donate thousands of dollars in educational grants for students in the area.
It’s not that these companies try to be sustainable while achieving their goals; it’s that sustainability is the goal. Copalli USA’s CEO Mark Breene puts it plainly: “Concern for the community and the environment came long before the rum.”
-
Best Bourbon, Scotch and Ultra-Aged Whisky
Image Credit: Ren Fuller Bourbon: Heaven Hill, Heritage Collection 17-Year-Old Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Heaven Hill is a storied Kentucky distillery known for the affordable bourbons Elijah Craig and Evan Williams. But it also excels at the high-end, and the inaugural release in the new Heritage Collection is the latest proof. Each whiskey is produced from one of the distillery’s six mashbills, and this one uses the tried-and-true bourbon recipe of 78 percent corn, 10 percent rye and 12 percent malted barley. The bourbon was aged for a minimum of 17 years and blended with liquid up to 20 years old. Normally, bourbons of this age can become overly oaky and tannic, but this bottling is fantastically balanced. Classic notes of vanilla, caramel, stone fruit and a whiff of char dance across the palate with every sip. This bottle will certainly be a collector’s item, but the temptation to pour yourself a glass may be too much to resist.
Single-Malt Scotch: Bruichladdich, Black Art Edition 09.1
Bruichladdich, the 141-year-old distillery in Scotland’s Islay region, was mothballed in 1994 and restarted production in 2001. That hiatus did nothing to diminish its reputation for innovation—or for producing some of the smokiest single malts you can find. Its ultra-premium Black Art series gives head distiller Adam Hannett free rein to bottle barrels produced before the closure. The ninth edition of Black Art is a 1992 vintage matured for 29 years in a variety of casks, though Hannett doesn’t reveal what types were used. This, like the distillery’s core expression, is an unpeated whisky, with no color added or chill filtration. Its flavor is lovely and complex, full of chocolate, tropical-fruit, spice and vanilla- shortbread notes. Just 12,000 bottles were released at a cask strength of 44.1 percent, making this a prize that whisky fans should seek out.
Ultra-Aged Whisky: The Glendronach, Aged 50 Years
If you’ve had the pleasure of sampling whisky aged for three, four or even five decades, you probably know the results can be… interesting. Sometimes the liquid loses its whisky character, instead turning into something more like an aged Cognac. But the GlenDronach got it right with the oldest release it has ever bottled, a rare and delicate half-century-old single malt. This juice was distilled in 1971 and spent five decades maturing in Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso-sherry casks. After so many years, just enough liquid was left for 198 bottles to be released globally, and each comes in a stunning decanter housed in a leather case. The color looks more like balsamic vinegar than whisky, but the flavor unfolds with notes of dusty leather, sour cherry, tobacco, nutmeg, molasses and honey on the palate. If you can, get two bottles, one to enjoy now and one for your collection. $25,000
-
Best Cask-Finished Whiskey, Rye and Barrel-Proof Whiskey
Image Credit: Ren Fuller Cask-Finished Whiskey: Heaven’s Door, The Master Blenders’ Edition
The spirits world is over-saturated with sub-standard, cash-grabbing celebrity brands, but some, such as Bob Dylan’s Heaven’s Door, offer legitimate high-caliber releases. This special Master Blenders’ Edition is a collaboration with esteemed Irish brand Redbreast, which makes some of the best single-pot still whiskey on the market. Heaven’s Door’s 10-year-old bourbon was finished in Redbreast casks for an additional 15 months, bringing notes of fruit, sherry and a bit of apple pie to the palate. While Dylan’s name is front and center, the real artists here are master blenders Billy Leighton (Redbreast) and Ryan Perry (Heaven’s Door), who have put together a whiskey that sings with flavor and character.
Rye Whiskey: Whistlepig, The Boss Hog VIII: LapuLapu’s Pacific
Each new Boss Hog bottling offers something unique. But LapuLapu’s Pacific, the eighth in the series from Vermont’s WhistlePig, is a standout, elevating the distillery’s already superb stock of sourced, aged ryes. The whiskey was first put into 7-year-old rum casks for four weeks and then finished for just 10 days in barrels from the Philippines that previously held rum for a decade. This double- finish brings a sweet, almost floral bouquet to the peppery, spicy rye, with notes of candied orange, cinnamon, banana, mango and baked apple on the palate. The result is a luxurious sipping rye whiskey unlike anything you’ve ever tasted.
Barrel-proof Whiskey: Little Book, Chapter 5: “The Invitation”
Freddie Noe, grandson of the legendary master distiller Booker Noe and son of current Jim Beam master distiller Fred Noe, isn’t resting on his family legacy. The youngest Noe is the mind behind the excellent and innovative Little Book series. These blended cask-strength whiskeys are among the most creative releases the company has launched in recent years. The latest, Chapter 5: “The Invitation,” is a blend of 2-year-old, 5-year-old and 15-year-old bourbons, as well as 3-year-old malted rye whiskey. This is a powerfully good combination with Jim Beam’s familiar nutty grain and oak character at its core, along with notes of jalapeño corn bread, malted chocolate, caramel apple tart, nutmeg and grapefruit.
-
Best Mezcal and Tequila
Image Credit: Ren Fuller Mezcal: Agua Magica
Among the rapidly growing number of mezcal releases in the United States, Agua Mágica was one of the best of the past year, in terms of both aesthetics and flavor. The stylish bottle can be purchased as part of a gift box designed by artist Miguel Cardenas, and the liquid within is just as beautiful, balanced with notes of soft smoke, dewy grass, citrus and white pepper. This is an ensamble mezcal, meaning it’s made from two types of agave (in this case, from espadin and tobala sourced from farmers in Mexico’s San Juan del Rio region). Don Rogelio Juan Hernandez and his son distill the mezcal using traditional techniques, such as the ancient tahona process, which uses a stone wheel to crush the juice out of the agave piñas. Agua Mágica is a true sipping mezcal that should appeal to both newcomers to the category and experienced aficionados.
Tequila: Don Julio Ultima Reserva
Celebrating a distillery’s 80th anniversary calls for an impressive bottle. Ultima Reserva delivers. The extra-añejo tequila is made from Blue Weber agave harvested from the final field that Don Julio González and his family planted in 2006. To preserve the fruits of their labor, blenders use the solera aging system, which marries portions of much older liquid with less-aged tequila in the final blend. Most of what you’ll drink was rested in ex-bourbon barrels before being seasoned in Madeira wine casks, then aged for a minimum of 36 months. The expression, housed in a tall, elegant decanter, is a beautiful golden copper color, with notes of crème brûlée and spice on the nose and a palate that expands with flavors such as dark chocolate, plum, hay and a splash of dark berries on the finish, the result of that final maturation step.
-
Best Gin and Rum
Image Credit: Ren Fuller Gin: Sông Cái, Dry Gin
The gin moment has stretched into years at this point, with fresh expressions popping up in virtually every corner of the world. One of the most intriguing and flavorful new releases is said to be Vietnam’s first gin. Sông Cái was founded by Daniel Nguyen, and its team uses locally foraged botanicals to flavor its Dry Gin. This delicate spirit includes green turmeric, jungle pepper, black cardamom and heirloom pomelo, all of which complement the core juniper base. It’s equally suited for a martini or other classic cocktails like a Negroni or Last Word, with notes of eucalyptus, citrus, cherry, spicy pepper and earthy juniper. Gin lovers should keep an eye out for this fragrant and complex spirit.
Rum: Ten to One x Uncle Nearest, Bourbon Cask Finish
This new rum, released to celebrate Black History Month, is a collaboration between two Black-owned brands. Ten to One Rum launched in 2019 and sources and blends rum from several Caribbean countries, each bringing its own specific flavor and character to the spirit. For this release, aged dark rum was finished in bourbon barrels from Uncle Nearest, a Tennessee whiskey brand named after Nathan “Nearest” Green, the man who is now recognized for teaching Jack Daniel his distilling technique. This resulting rum is a deeply complex sipping spirit. The nose opens with freshly baked banana bread and nutmeg, which slowly transforms into layers of caramel, pineapple, vanilla pudding and a bit of spice on the palate. Whiskey fans, take heed, because this rum can stand with the best bourbon, scotch or rye.
-
Best Cognac: Courvoisier Mizunara
Image Credit: Courvoisier Japanese Mizunara oak casks have become popular vessels for aging spirits in the last few years. Everything from Irish whiskey to bourbon to blended scotch has touched this expensive and relatively rare wood, which is known for imparting aromatic and delicate flavors of sandalwood, spice and cocoa into the liquid. Mizunara barrels are often used for secondary finishing or maturation, which is how Courvoisier deployed them for this release. Chief blender Patrice Pinet worked with House of Suntory chief blender Shinji Fukuyo on this bottling, selecting a cask in which to age the Cognac after initial maturation in French oak. Just 500 bottles are available, each numbered and emblazoned with an image of a Mizunara oak tree across the front. This Cognac is an unexpected delight, with a dash of bitter tannin and apple flavors that offset the sweetness and dried fruit at its core, underscored with subtle sandalwood and hints of cherry. $2,000
-
Person of the Year: Nicole Austin
Image Credit: Courtesy of Nicole Austin Things have certainly gotten a lot more interesting at Cascade Hollow Distilling Co. since Nicole Austin was hired as GM and distiller in 2018. The distillery, located in sleepy Tullahoma, Tenn., is the home of George Dickel, a Diageo- owned brand that serious whiskey fans overlooked for many years. But Austin’s background in craft and Irish whiskeys, along with a degree in chemical engineering, has helped lead Cascade Hollow to new levels of quality and innovation. In the past year alone, she’s been the driving force behind notable whiskeys such as Dickel Bourbon, a new Bottled in Bond vintage and a rye whiskey produced in collaboration with Colorado craft distillery Leopold Bros. These excellent releases are beacons in a sea of so many overpriced and underwhelming bottles, and we can’t wait to see what else she has in store.
