Soave has gained an unfortunate reputation due to the high volume of bland wines coming from the area’s larger producers. But a handful of small, quality-oriented producers are striving to maintain Soave as one of Italy’s best whites. Among these are Leonildo “Nino” Pieropan; his wife, Teresita; and their sons, Andrea and Dario. Nino’s grandfather founded the estate in 1890, but it is Nino who has raised the property to its present heights. Made with 100 percent Garganega, the single-vineyard Pieropan 2006 Soave Classico La Rocca (www.pieropan.it $50) is aromatic on the nose and dense in the mouth, showing pure acidity and lovely notes of spice and nuts.