Pio Cesare 2004 Barolo Ornato

Pio Boffa—great-grandson of the eponymous founder of Pio Cesare—brought this Piemontese producer noted for its classic wines into the modern world by introducing its first single-vineyard Barolos. Though the estate-owned Ornato vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba forms the primary source of Pio Cesare’s “regular” Barolo DOCG wine, the Ornato designation is reserved for limited quantities of wine produced in exceptional vintages from specially designated vines. Ripe, lush, beefy, and tangy with acidity and depth of flavor, Pio Cesare 2004 Barolo Ornato (www.piocesare.it, $117) goes long and deep on the palate, revealing spiced plum and ripe berry fruit. Elegant and amazing.