In her tranquil West Village boîte, chef Anita Lo applies her French training to global ingredients in surprising ways. Never precious or overwrought, dishes like duck breast pan-seared with fava beans, fava leaves, and Chinese sausage, or sweet-pea flan with snails, ramps, pancetta, and Parmesan cheese are as technically spot-on as they are comforting.

Specialties: Seared foie gras with soup dumplings; skate with avocado and radishes; pork and beans.

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