Chef Clayton Wells is cooking the kind of food that looks simple on the plate but is so deeply layered with flavor that you find yourself staring at a visually stunning plate of, say, red cabbage with green sauce and black garlic and wondering, How did he do that? Add a sensitive drinks menu heavy on natural wines and interesting sakes, and Automata is the kind of place that makes you want to be a regular, even if you do not live in Sydney.
One of three attention-getting restaurants in the Old Clare Hotel, in a suburb of Sydney, Australia.
Automata’s aesthetic is industrial chic, but the service is warm and friendly.
Wells previously cooked at Momofuku Seiōbo; this is his first solo venture.
Automata, automata.com.au (five-course menus, $68)