Few restaurateurs have made as refined an imprint on New York’s dining scene as Drew Nieporent. In 1985 he put Tribeca—then a bleak neighborhood—on the culinary map with Montrachet, which after a long, fabled run morphed into the ambitious Corton. Now the hallowed dining room is home to Bâtard (batardtribeca.com), a collaboration between Nieporent; Daniel Boulud’s longtime maître d’, John Winterman; and the Austrian chef Marcus Glocker, a Gordon Ramsay alum. The results are no less exquisite. At the petite bar, patrons may enjoy a classic Vieux Carré before perusing the two-, three-, or four-course menu. The tender octopus “pastrami,” a visually alluring slab of terrine, is accompanied by braised ham hock, Pommery mustard, and new potatoes. The pork schnitzel, available by request, is light, lemony, and brightened with lingonberries and sea buckthorn. Glocker’s crunchy, caramelized milk bread makes for a desirable and devourable finale. At once boisterous and elegant, Nieporent’s latest creation captures the moment in fine dining.