A darling of food critics across the country, Paul Kahan has opened three spots in Chicago. This, his first—a sleek boîte admired by design aficionados—remains the most serious. American haute cuisine at its best, with a strong regional angle, is what you’ll taste in items like a charcuterie plate of boudin blanc and veal pancetta with almond yogurt and lobster-roe vinaigrette or roasted Wisconsin veal chop with salsify, braised artichokes, and pumpkin jus.

Specialties: Foie gras terrine with whiskey sponge cake; grilled prime beef short rib with cauliflower-and-sesame gnocchi.

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