Michelin-starred chef Guy Savoy and his Las Vegas executive chef Julien Asseo have taken one of the gastronomic world’s most elegant delicacies to a place where it has never gone before.
The Caviar Room, located on the second floor of the Augustus Tower at Caesars Palace, Las Vegas, is an intimate enclave within Restaurant Guy Savoy, secluded from the main dining area in what was formerly the Bubbles & Bites Lounge. The space is now devoted to presenting caviar in innovative and imaginative ways destined to change the way even the most ardent devotees view this epicurean treat.
For example, there is the Pot-au-Feu ($75), a caviar-paired interpretation of the classic French stew with octopus, but reimagined as an arrangement of puréed carrots and leeks topped with oyster leaf and a sliver of crispy beef, plus an oxtail gelée with cornichon slices, all encircling an octopus centerpiece liberally topped with golden osetra caviar. But the culmination of this presentation is realized when the dish is covered with a glass dome and “ocean water” (seaweed-infused ionized water to recreate an ocean-like aroma) is poured under the perforated porcelain plate and a fragrant cold steam fog envelopes the dish, only to be dispersed when the cover is dramatically lifted by the waiter.
Then there is the Colors of Caviar ($95), a multi-hued, layered, signature dish-in-a glass, starting on the bottom with a caviar vinaigrette covered with cream of caviar, then a purée of French green beans with caviar, next a canal of golden osetra, and capped with a caviar sabayon ladled out tableside by the waiter. Guests are encouraged to take the accompanying pearl spoon and plunge it to the bottom of the glass, to bring all the components up together for the first bite.
Or try the Salmon Mi Cuit ($130), the firm, perfectly cooked fish resting in a mini-lake of beurre blanc with caviar, and topped with golden osetra.
The restaurant offers a five-course caviar tasting menu for $170 per person, which includes a glass of Krug MV, or guests can order a la carte, with half portions available for selected items. “Not everyone wants a four-hour dinner,” says Guy Savoy general manager Alain Alpe. “And because many of our customers like caviar, we decided to present them with individual tastings of caviar—just three, four or five courses—whatever they wish, but each with a different presentation. In Las Vegas you can easily get an ounce of caviar in a dish with a few condiments. But here we have caviar creations—with the flavor, the texture, and the imagination—that does not exist anywhere else.” And with not a blini in sight.
The Caviar Room is open Wednesday through Sunday, 5:30 to 9:30 pm. (702.731.7286, caesars.com)
Krug and Caviar Pairing
As Guy Savoy is also the home of the only Krug Room in the United States, there is an extensive offering of cuvées, ranging from the Krug Multi-Vintage Grande Cuvée ($29 a glass when ordered with at least an ounce of roe in the Caviar Room, compared to the dining room price of $55 a glass) to the Clos du Mesnil 1981 ($3,600 a bottle). We’ve paired a few Champagnes from their list with some of the best caviar offerings.
The caviar: Royal Osetra
The Champagne: Krug, Grande Cuvée, Reims, MV
The Grande Cuvée, with its refreshing, rich flavors of lemon and grapefruit and notes of toasted bread and hazelnut, pairs well with the crisp, briny taste of the dark green royal osetra.
The caviar: Golden Osetra
The Champagne: Krug, Reims, 1995
Golden-yellow in color, this large bead caviar has the rich flavor and nutty characteristics that are an ideal match for the 1995 vintage, with its hint of honey and almonds, which are perfectly balanced with fresh citrus fruits.
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