In Zurich, Switzerland, where popular restaurants can go for decades without perceptible change, chefs challenge tradition with caution. But Laurent Eperon—chef at the recently reopened Pavillon at Zurich’s stately Hotel Baur au Lac—offers a fresh take on tradition with a trilingual menu that has a lightened touch. The once summer-only restaurant, which the hotel reintroduced in July after a glorious renovation by the French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, is now open year-round and offers seasonal dishes that emphasize seafood and incorporate Asian influences (such as a spring roll paired with king’s crab on bouillabaisse jelly). The cooking remains true to tradition in that it is French in technique yet Swiss in its blending of luxury with practicality. Past guests will be pleased that Eperon has kept his much-loved Canadian lobster dish on the menu, while patrons old and new will be tempted by his Iranian osetra caviar served over ice. Pavillon, +, www.bauraulac.ch

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