Masa Takayama is an indisputable sushi virtuoso, and this is his concert hall where he performs etudes in toro, sea urchin, or whatever premium fish has just arrived from Japan. The setting has both the drama and the placidity of a sacred space—there’s no music playing and any trace of a din has been muted. Everyone is struck silent by the awe-inspiring gems—composed, as-is, cooked, and raw—that the chef prepares. No menus here, but you’re always in gifted hands.

Specialties: Every meal is omakase (chef’s choice).

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