When Jean-François Piège opened Le Grand Restaurant (jeanfrancoispiege.com) in Paris last fall, critics swooned over the magnificent interior. Instead of the fussy Louis decor that usually signals serious dining in Paris, Piège’s intimate new place on the Right Bank was boldly modern—and the work of a Los Angeles interior designer, Gulla Jónsdóttir. Diners pass Piège’s marble-lined open kitchen en route to a chic, low-lit dining room with textured cement walls, Baccarat sconces, thick honeycomb-patterned carpeting, and a dramatic crystalline skylight.
Now the spotlight is on Piège’s equally striking modern cuisine. In January, the restaurant earned two Michelin stars, with prix-fixe menus (lunch, about $90; dinner, about $220 to $275) that feature dishes such as lobster cooked in fig leaves with pickled blackberries and veal sweetbreads lacquered with walnut liqueur and roasted over smoldering walnut shells.