London’s New Spring

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Chef Skye Gyngell earned a Michelin star and a devoted following in an unlikely setting: the rustic Petersham Nurseries Café in southwest London. She famously left in 2012, calling that star a “curse” because of the crowds and demands that came with it. Now she is making a triumphant return to the stoves at Spring (springrestaurant.co.uk), her light-filled restaurant at the Somerset House in London. With palest pink walls, yards of white marble, and an enclosed winter garden, Spring is the perfect setting for Gyngell’s sensual and sophisticated cooking. Fine, handmade ravioli are stuffed with ricotta and chard, while a poached-skate salad is garnished with sultanas, capers, and pickles. She pairs wild halibut with slow-cooked leeks and beurre blanc, and a fabulous veal chop with anchovies. Desserts—such as a tender meringue with clementine sorbet, candied ginger, and Jersey cream—are equally inspired.  —Elizabeth Blake