Some families designate one or two people to make holiday supper for everyone. But to Marc Forgione, chef and owner of the eponymous New York restaurant, that’s boring—the cooking should be as entertaining as the eating. “Call me crazy, but I think it’s so much more fun when you have six or seven people pitching in and bumping into each other,” says Forgione. “Even if you don’t have any culinary skill, you can peel a potato or make a cocktail.” He likes to please every eater, so he recommends adding turkey-leg roulades to the menu. “The meat is more moist, and everybody gets to enjoy the dark meat, not just those two lucky people who snag the drumsticks,” he says. “Since I was born, my whole life has revolved around food. That moment—when it’s cold outside in the Northeast, the turkey comes out of the oven, and you carry it to the table—is so nostalgic.”
Gloria Ferrer 2007 Carneros Cuvée
The weight of a vintage sparkler, earned over years spent on the lees, makes it a good texture match for the dark meat in this roulade, and the vibrant bubbles themselves are a great foil for the herbs and spice.