José Andrés has opened one innovative restaurant after another, from introducing Americans to tapas and Spanish modernism at Jaleo and Minibar in Washington D.C. to creating the four-star Spanish spectacle called the Bazaar in the SLS Beverly Hills. In August 2014, Andrés—who is a partner in the SLS hotel group and its culinary director—opened Bazaar Meat, his first steakhouse. And once again, he is playfully upending all expectations.
The dining room, a sort of surrealist hunting lodge designed by Philippe Starck, is centered on a roaring, multilevel Grillworks grill, with two chefs devoted to the 40-minute process of perfectly cooking thick beef-rib steaks from boutique outfits, including Lindsay Ranch in Oregon and Rosewood Beef in Texas. In most steakhouses, that would be the beginning and end of the story. Here, it is just one chapter in an enormous, greatest-hits menu of meat. Highlights include the Super-Giant Pork-Skin Chicharrón, the size of a large placemat, which comes with a mallet and a server bearing a napkin to shield diners from chicharrón shrapnel. Suckling pig is offered whole or quartered, and in no smaller portions. There is a cured-meats menu (including Fermin’s Jamón Ibérico de Belotta), a raw bar, a caviar menu, an oyster menu (including a half-dozen smoked kushi oysters that arrive under a glass dome to contain the vapors), menus for carpaccio and tartare, and much, much more—including the chef’s famous signature dishes, such as “spherified” olives, cotton-candy foie gras, and the foamy Magic Mojito cocktail. As if to wave a white flag, the dessert menu consists almost entirely of tiny petit fours, such as crema Catalana. (702.761.7610, slslasvegas.com)