Le Bernardin, New York City
On the Menu:
A warm sashimi of kingfish is topped with dollops of caviar and served tableside with shallots, garlic, white wine, mussel stock, butter, and lemon juice.
Caviar of Choice:
Asian Amur Golden Hybrid from China ($135 for 1 ounce, paramountcaviar.com).
“In blind tastings, we decided it is the best we can find on the market. The eggs are bigger and the color is more appealing—a dark gold mixed with gray. The flavor lingers longer than most, and is very creamy and a bit nutty, with a freshness like the wind coming off the ocean. . . . Wild caviar was inconsistent. When it was amazing, you would want it all the time. But it could also be very bad. Today, the farm raised is much more consistent. The best is about 90 percent as good as the best wild was at the time. There is a level of refinement that only wild sturgeons can do.”