When Kevin Fehling moved from the provincial German village of Travemünde to the city of Hamburg, it took a mere 3 months for him to regain three Michelin stars. The Table is radically urban, designed around a single, long communal table. Guests sit and watch as the cooks—accompanied by Fehling’s lounge-music mixtapes—work silently, creating dishes filled with Japanese flavors and inspirations: nigiri of foie gras, shiso jelly masquerading as octopus, or a dashi macaron.
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The restaurant is in Hamburg’s newly redeveloped HafenCity district on the Elbe River.
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There are only 20 seats at the snake-shaped table, each within a perfect view of the kitchen.
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Fehling’s creations have an effortless, natural perfection.
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The Table, thetable-hamburg.de (tasting menu, $220)
