Schloss Vollrads is the ancestral home of the Barons of Greiffenclau, but since bankruptcy proceedings in 1997 and the subsequent suicide of the last baron, the property—including its vineyards, its 17th-century manor house, and its landmark tower—has been in the possession of the Nassau Sparkasse bank. A year ago, a sale of the estate seemed imminent, but the bank continues to produce the property’s celebrated wines under the direction of Rowald Hepp. Among its offerings (which include the Vollrads Kabinett, the world’s first, dating to 1728) is Schloss Vollrads 2004 Riesling Beerenauslese, Rheingau. It is elegant and balanced, with searing peach flavors and sweet honey tones. This wine shows the grace and subtlety characteristic of Vollrads wines.
($170; 375 ml)