Those who contend that Chardonnay grown in the sacred precincts of Chablis and the Côte de Beaune makes the best white wine on the planet can certainly find plenty of liquid evidence to support their argument. The soils of Burgundy, after all, have nurtured white wines of renown since the age of Charlemagne. These campaigners, however, overlook the supple yet potent Roussanne- and Marsanne-based wines from the Rhône, the austerely elegant Sancerres of the Loire, and most important of all, the white monarch of Bordeaux from the first-growth estate of Château Haut-Brion. One would be hard-pressed to name a white wine from Bordeaux that bests this beauty from Pessac-Léognan. Composed of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris, the Château Haut-Brion 2011 Pessac-Léognan Blanc (www.haut-brion.com, $1,000) most certainly will improve in the cellar, acquiring nuances well beyond its present profile of crisp green apple, white peach, kiwifruit, and brine.