Best of the Best 2011: Domestic White Wines: Captûre 2009 Les Pionniers Sauvignon Blanc

A long and storied history can imbue an estate with a certain appeal that the imagination of the wine drinker attributes to the wine itself. There is a certain reverence and not a little awe that accompanies the consumption of a glass of Château Haut-Brion Blanc, for example. Yet certain recently established vineyard sites have a magic and resonance of their own—a fortuitous alignment of soil, climate, and exposure that ultimately fills the glass with a transcendent sensory experience. Tin Cross Vineyards—Carol and Mike Foster’s remote acreage situated 2,450 feet above the floor of the Alexander Valley—is such a place. Here, the couple and winemakers May-Britt and Denis Malbec, formerly of Château Latour, craft Chardonnay and exquisite Bordeaux-style wines under the Captûre label. The Captûre 2009 Les Pionniers Sauvignon Blanc (www.capturewines.com, $36), a blend from sites throughout Sonoma County, exudes intense, apple-orchard fragrances followed by flavors of candied lemon, green apple, and tangy pineapple. The protracted finish is steely and clean.

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