California: Roederer Estate 2009 L’Ermitage Brut

If Scholium represents the California fringe, Roederer is the epitome of California classic. The French Champagne maker brought its style to the wild Mendocino Coast in 1989 and has been producing the state’s best, most consistent sparkling wines ever since. L’Ermitage, its tête de cuvée, is produced only in the best vintages from the top blocks of the estate vineyards.

Made with equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with 4 percent aged wine from 2006 and 2007 added, the Roederer Estate 2009 L’Ermitage Brut ($47) is luxurious and complex, with notes of toasted brioche and orange peel. (roedererestate.com)