Good news: There’s no need to abandon rosé just because summer is drawing to a close. Simply choose one from the small subset of rosé wines matured in oak, which are more sophisticated than the typical easy summer sippers and suitable for special occasions and fine fare. Often compared to white Burgundy, these wines can even be cellared for several years before drinking, adding even more depth to their already complex flavors.
Winemakers set aside grapes from their best plots to create both aged and age-worthy rosés. “Muse de Miraval is the result of a strict selection of the two best and oldest parcels of Grenache and Rolle”—you might know the latter as Vermentino—“at the Miraval château,” says Famille Perrin CEO Marc Perrin of his family’s entry into the aged-rosé category in partnership with Château Miraval. In a departure from the steel-only tank style of the château’s everyday offering, Muse is vinified in egg-shaped concrete vessels before being aged in 600-liter barrels.
“Thirty years ago, most rosés were dead after a year,” says Jean-François Ott, fourth-generation proprietor of Domaines Ott, which produces three single-estate rosés. But today, he says, “if the quality of the grapes is good at harvest, and the balance of the wine, its acidity and structure are dialed in, you can certainly age rosé.” While the Bandol region—home to Château Romassan, in southeast France—is known for its consistently high-quality rosé offerings, only a handful of wineries there (and throughout southern France) are aging their pink wines. These three are a great starting point for your collection.