Tasting notes: The JC Cellars 2006 Rockpile Vineyard Haley’s Reserve Syrah is as intense and generous as the vineyard is spartan and bleak. The scent of wildflowers greets the nose, while unctuous brambleberry juice and concentrated black-cherry liqueur wash over a deep core of ripe tannins. Worth knowing: Jeff Cohn, the former winemaker at Rosenblum Cellars, stepped out on his own in 2006 to devote his full energies to JC Cellars. His modus operandi: Establish relationships with the finest growers across the state to produce modest quantities of immodestly great wine. Although Cohn produces more than 20 different rhône-style wines in his Oakland, Calif., warehouse-cum-winery, the syrahs he has sourced from the Rockpile Vineyard—a rugged scrap of terrain situated on a peak above Lake Sonoma—are his masterpieces.