Cockburn’s 2015 Vintage ($80) could almost be called “the vintage that wasn’t,” because it was not universally declared. And yet, a small number of port houses did declare 2015 as a vintage year, which means for them, it was a spectacular harvest. This is especially true for Cockburn’s (pronounced Koh-burnz), which was founded in 1815 by Scotsman Robert Cockburn, as 2015 marked its bicentennial year, and the label is appropriately marked, “Bicentenary Vintage Porto.” Befitting this milestone, this is a slightly meatier vintage, laden with black plums and maraschino cherries and a slight hint of vanilla. Slightly rough around the edges due to its youth, this is a port that will become mellower over time, and can easily age for twenty years or more. The Bicentenary bottling is also available in limited edition magnum, double magnum, and Imperial formats.