Sommeliers recommend a veritable sea of pink wines as days grow warm, but it is possible to find in this tide of choices a unique bottle—a truly exquisite rosé. Take, for instance, a Calistoga, Calif., winery’s new release: La Sirena 2017 Rosato ($28). It is the latest creation of the legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett, who has made some of Napa Valley’s most exclusive bottles (Amuse Bouche, Screaming Eagle, and Kenzo Estate, among others). For the 2017 Rosato, the second vintage of her rosé, she used Primitivo—a grape widely cultivated in southern Italy and not often used in rosé—from a vineyard east of Napa, in Amador County. “I wanted to make a good rosé for under $30,” says Barrett. “I want to make a lot of friends with this wine.” She also wanted it to be a “rosé on purpose”—grown and picked to be pink, not made from juice drained off to concentrate a red wine (the Saignée method). The briefest time in contact with the skins (as little as 30 minutes) and an all-stainless-steel treatment after pressing has produced a delicate but vibrant wine. Beautiful floral aromas wrap around clean, bright red fruit, leading to a long mineral finish.