Chickens are delicious but perhaps pedestrian. Ducks, however, elevate the holiday table. Not only are they unafraid to take to the skies and brave cold water, but they also survive the harsher elements of their habitat, having evolved a thick layer of insulation. And that’s a very good thing for us. The duck’s fatty, rich, red-meat-like qualities make it a versatile partner for many wines. As with most pairing puzzles, your main decision is whether you’re using the wine to complement your meal or to contrast with it. Bright, acidic wines cut against the unctuous and heavy flavors of our favorite waterfowl, making for a zippy, balanced mouthful, whereas heavier reds can also make a worthy assist. You’ll find that duck meat can balance even the most tannic wines.