For the longest time, one of Russian River’s most sought-after producers, Williams Selyem, had no home equal to its reputation. That can’t be said now. The new, soaring glass-and-stone tasting room, with barrel room behind, offers space on a grand scale for seated, guided tastings that are at once communal and intimate. Creative use of barrels and bottles ground the design in the craft and reward of winemaking. Open to mailing-list members by appointment.