Semillon, best known as the grape in sweet Sauternes or part of the Bordeaux Blanc blend, takes on a different character in Australia. Particularly in the Hunter Valley north of Sydney, it becomes an intensely delicious dry white wine, with round, waxy flavors and citrusy, floral aromas. Tyrrell’s 2011 Vat 1 Hunter Semillon ($55), made by a family-owned winery established in 1858, uses grapes from two of the estate’s best blocks and is planted with own-rooted vines going back to 1923. After just 5 years, this classic Aussie Semillon has tremendous complexity and length. Imagine it in 20.