Tasting notes: Heady aromas of red-raspberry liqueur, ripe cherry, and concentrated boysenberry wash over scents of allspice and sandalwood. The texture—a voluptuous liquid fabric that is at once warm and cool, soft and powerful—nearly trumps the gorgeous succession of fruit, toffee, and toasted-wood flavors. Worth knowing: Tor Kenward, the vintner behind this velvety red, has been a pioneer in Napa Valley for more than three decades, having worked with Beringer wine master Ed Sbragia to shape that winery’s textbook Private Reserve program. The vineyard from which these grapes are sourced is also significant: Established in 1868 by Hamilton Crabb, this Oakville property formed the backbone of Robert Mondavi Winery’s cabernet sauvignon from the time Mondavi acquired his first 11.6 acres in 1966. The largest parcel that Mondavi did not come to own belongs to grower Andy Beckstoffer, whose grapes make for some of California’s most prestigious wines—this one included.