Consistency is as much the mark of a master as innovation. Few wines have, vintage after vintage, remained as fascinating and as age-worthy as Grange, the flagship red from Penfolds. The Australian label was founded in 1844 by Christopher Rawson Penfold, a physician who initially sought to make a wine-based tonic for the treatment of anemia. Bottled since the 1952 vintage and named for the founder’s home, Grange—though predominantly composed of Shiraz—is sourced from a variety of vineyards in a variety of regions. The current chief winemaker, Peter Gago, has bestowed on us a string of incomparable examples of this blend, including the Penfolds 2010 Grange ($850, penfolds.com), a near-perfect, iodine-colored infusion of blueberry, plum, and dark chocolate laced with delicate notes of peat, black olive, leather, herbes de Provence, and brine.