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K’Far/Laser Wolf—Philadelphia

Laser Wolf restaurant Photo by Michael Persico

At K’Far, Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook’s new all-day café, Camille Cogswell* channels the bakeries of Israel. Along with pistachio sticky buns, flaky bourekas and mini babkas, she devotes a section of the morning menu to the pillowy soft Yemeni bread kubaneh, which can be topped savory or sweet, such as with smoked salmon or brown-sugar ricotta.

At dinner, the menu shows off Israeli cuisine’s influences from throughout the region, such as the hearty Iraqi one-pot dish t’bit, served for two in a small Dutch oven filled with rice and beef.

At another new Solomonov and Cook restaurant, Andrew Henshaw runs an ode to an Israeli shipudiya, or skewer house. Ordering is simple: Just choose your meat, and along with it comes a sprawling selection of dips, pickles, vegetables and salads called salatim that have roots across the Middle East—perfect for dragging your fresh pita through or slathering on lamb merguez.

Laser Wolf’s concrete walls and servers in Hawaiian shirts make it appear casual, but underneath the easy-going façade is a high level of craft. From the perfectly grilled chicken to the bartender creating the ideal pairing with a funky natural wine, you can tell that Laser Wolf is serious fun.

*After the issue went to press, Cogswell left the company, but K’Far continues to offer takeout during Covid-19 closures.