This new Hollywood gem is a study in contrasts: Its art-deco glamour elevates the raw meat in the butcher’s case and the hanging cuts visible beyond the windows of the curing rooms. The heat from the iron asador is cooled by the marble chef’s counter and polished service. While Gwen does everything right—especially the bone-in wagyu rib eye add-on with its succulent cap—the standout here is chef Curtis Stone’s charcuterie, which is unlike almost any other. It’s creative, sure: Think spicy lamb snack sticks, a rustic venison-and-cherry terrine, and porcini salami that tastes like the concentrated essence of mushroom. But Stone pursues a purity of flavor in his cured meats by forgoing the centuries-old technique of spraying them to encourage mold growth. Another bright star here is sommelier Fahara Zamorano, who exhibits a flair for unexpected yet apt pairings, such as a white wine from Santorini with a salad of bitter greens or a Spanish red vermouth to complement the cinnamon mille-feuille at the finale (tasting menus $55–$185).