As we ride the chilly wave of winter into a new decade, let it be said that, finally, cracks in the streetwear façade have emerged.
“As streetwear is trending down, what trends up is this idea of craftsmanship and innovation,” says Josh Peskowitz, men’s fashion director of Moda Operandi. As designers again look toward the virtues of what clothes and materials should communicate—workmanship, versatility and craft—as opposed to how loudly they shout, we consider one of the craftiest items: the reversible winter jacket. “A reversible coat in itself is not innovative, but there are ways to do it that are very clever,” says Peskowitz. “If it’s executed well, it’s a sign of high craftsmanship.”
And, fittingly, options abound. Alessandro Michele and the mad maximalists at Gucci covered one side of their Reversible Wool Coat with a retro “GG” logo pattern, in camel and ebony, while the other side sings—loudly but beautifully—in houndstooth. We see more camel, and a calming gray, from the cashmere maestros at Brunello Cucinelli, who looked to the blazer for the silhouette of their silk and cashmere Outerwear Jacket. If weather is a prime concern, Hickey Freeman is looking out with the handsome, single-breasted simplicity of its Storm System Overcoat, while Loro Piana—makers of Hickey’s Storm fabric—takes luxe to the most casual of coats with its Bomber Windmate (pictured above), which mixes microfiber and cashmere to produce a stylish, waterproof and wind-resistant defense against winter’s onslaught.
Or consider the dexterity of Rag & Bone’s Brent Coat (pictured above): “We took a classic car coat shape and twisted it by making it more versatile,” says Marcus Wainright, the brand’s founder and chief designer. “It’s made from splittable double-face Italian wool, which is hand-finished.” All that warmth is rejoined by charcoal navy against buffalo check, a harmonious contrast of classics.
Whether waterproof, camel or cashmere, all of the above offer a convenience factor for the type of man who likes to keep things streamlined but adaptable. After all, the reversible jacket is inherently two coats for the price of one—or, depending on which brand gets your money, says Peskowitz, “two for the price of two.”