When Francesco Scognamiglio was creating Allegri’s 010109 collection last year, hence the numerical name, he was envisioning the brand’s limited-edition label as one fit for a modern-day royal. “I wanted to give it a Neapolitan-prince design philosophy,” says the former Versace designer, who continues his aristocratic theme for spring 2010. “If you’re dressing a prince it can’t be just a normal coat; it needs to have a little something extra,” he says of one of the pieces, a double-breasted silk trench coat featuring a back capelet. Other custom features in the 15-piece collection include gold and whale baleen, or bone, hardware used in combination with high-tech and high-touch fabrics such as water-repellent cashmere, linen, and crinkled silk (parachute cloth).
Allegri’s 010109 also introduces the brand’s first foray into tailored clothing with a trim-cut white peak-lapel suit made of a coated cotton cloth that Scognamiglio says is “reminiscent of those worn by Mick Jagger in the 1960s.” Although Allegri’s more classic Milano collection, shown here, is sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, among other upscale U.S. retailers, for now the 010109 brand can be purchased only through Allegri stores in Italy.
As for Scognamiglio, he is the latest in a long line of high-profile designers Allegri has employed since its inception in the 1950s. The Vinci, Italy-based company is well-known for launching the career of Giorgio Armani, its first designer, as well as its work with Romeo Gigli, Martin Margiela, Neil Barrett and, most recently, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf. The brand has also been a pioneer in the use of new outerwear materials––including a proprietary raincoat fiber made of nylon and steel thread and a Techno Twill that features a silent coating to help reduce the sound of rustling fabric during movement. (+39.0571.758.256, www.allegri.com)