New York City’s high-end menswear retailer The Armoury is bringing Liverano & Liverano’s ready-to-wear stateside. The Florentine tailor is arguably one of Italy’s best, considered to be one of the last greats of a bygone era of bespoke tailoring. But like many traditional tailors, Liverano has seen a need to dip its toes into the ready-to-wear market to keep up with the times. While it has been making ready-to-wear for the Japanese market for about a decade, The Armoury’s offering marks the first time it will be available stateside. According to The Armoury’s founder, Mark Cho, their Liverano ready-to-wear will be up to the standard that clients of Liverano expect—Liverano ready-to-wear offered in Japan is made by third-party factories, which has sometimes caused issues of inconsistency when it came to realizing the designs.
“We have been repeatedly asking Liverano about ready-to-wear options that did justice to his aesthetic vision, and about five years ago, he committed to starting his own small workshop in Carrara for making Florentine suits—already a specialized style—to his exacting specifications,” says Cho.
While five years might seem like an incredible amount of time to conceive a collaborative project that includes just one sports jacket and one suit, Cho says The Armoury’s patience with its brands pays off in the end. “We tend not to be overtly or overly commercial in our approach when working with these types of people,” says Cho. “Thus, we are able to form better relationships and are able to do more interesting projects than other parties.” Other collaborative projects of this nature have included shoes created by master shoemaker Yohei Fukuda for The Armoury and a suiting range by Ring Jacket.
The Liverano ready-to-wear offering includes a navy sports jacket ($3,150) and a gray sharkskin suit ($3,800), both in VBC fabric. The cut is modeled after Liverano’s bespoke silhouette, with an extended soft shoulder, no front dart, and open quarters. The jacket is left short, with the notch and breast pocket traditionally low. The Armoury asked Liverano for a slightly higher-rise pant in keeping with current menswear trends and The Armoury’s own aesthetic.
“The trousers, with its higher rise, pleated front, and strong taper to the ankle, creates a silhouette that feels younger and fresher,” says Antonio Liverano. “I didn’t want the suit to look like it was from the ’50s. In addition, the Florentine jacket has an extended shoulder, so the tapering of the trouser helps create a masculine shape.”
While Cho says there could be room to expand the Liverano ready-to-wear offering in the future, it will always remain small and exclusive. “The Carrara facility is very much a small, artisanal workshop, not a factory operation,” says Cho. “Production of a full ready-to-wear line might be too much volume for them to handle. In any case, we all hope for their ready-to-wear production to be limited and special.”