Since taking the helm at Berluti, Haider Ackermann has imbued the storied shoemaker’s ready-to-wear collection with a hefty dose of street-smart cool. Ackermann, who’s best known for his eponymous collection of rakish tailoring for both men and women, counts Tilda Swinton and Kanye West as loyal fans—both of whom exemplify the kind of free-spirited aesthete he usually designs for.
His debut collection for Berluti—shown this past January in Paris and hitting stores this fall—married Ackermann’s taste for sharply cut suits and rock-and-roll attitude with Berluti’s dedication to ultra-luxurious materials and timeless chic. The results ranged from a perfect camel coat with lemon-yellow astrakhan trim to an eight-button double-breasted suit in moss-green wool—classics crafted to a T, with the volume turned up.
One of the highlights of Ackermann’s fall collection was an archetypal bomber jacket rendered in glossy black lambskin with a removable shearling collar, crimson alligator undercollar, and quilted red silk lining.
The style proved to be such a hit that Berluti has released a capsule collection of variations on that jacket, available now before the full fall lineup drops. The bomber capsule epitomizes Ackermann’s new direction for the 122-year-old brand—taking a laid-back staple and giving it a decadent upgrade.
The capsule includes the black lambskin bomber that walked the runway along with three other riffs on the shearling-collared style: one in khaki-grained nubuck leather, one in dark gray cashmere with an emerald-green alligator undercollar, and one in aubergine quilted velvet with silky black twill sleeves.
With prices from $3,800 to $8,950, these bombers are a far cry from your old Members Only jacket. And all the better—these are investments in a kind of cool that’s guaranteed to endure.