Kris Van Assche, the creative director of Dior Homme, understands the need to break out of the formal mold. His new Black Carpet capsule collection blends sartorial style with streetwear influences to create evening wear with the right amount of edge. “I introduced coolness in tailored clothes,” says Van Assche, who marks his 10th anniversary with the men’s fashion brand this year. “My work brings street and youth culture into classical designs.”
The designer’s take on classical black tie includes a minimalist black tuxedo jacket adorned with jeweled lily-of-the-valley appliqué (the favorite flower of Christian Dior himself) and a fishtail jacket with leather confetti appliqué on the collar. More heavily embellished jackets feature bugle beads or embroidered bees on the collar and over the breast.
“Those tuxedo moments are quite rare today, but there are other occasions when a beautiful dress jacket is appropriate,” says Van Assche. A versatile dress jacket worn with jeans in a more casual context allows men to mix up evening and day attire to suit their own sense of individuality, he says. The approach has been adopted by a number of his clients, including musicians the Weeknd and ASAP Rocky, who look to the designer for style advice for their red-carpet events.