Conventional dress codes have gone out the window. Even before the pandemic made the office and home one and the same, the line between formal and casual—long a defining marker in menswear—had already begun to erode. Now, the line is as blurry as your vision after four martinis. What does “on-duty” attire even mean these days? “Off-duty”? Is there any real difference between the two?
In today’s world, looking sharp isn’t dependent upon the setting or context (while we fully support the concept, when’s the last time you “dressed for dinner”?) The modern man needs clothes that deliver ‘round the clock. Sure, you may be thinking: sounds nice, but what exactly does that mean? Etro has answered with a new wear-everywhere capsule collection proposing the aptly-named 24 Hour Jacket.
“I feel tailoring has changed as a consequence of mutated life and work habits—there is an increased need for passepartout garments,” Kean Etro, the brand’s menswear designer, tells us. “I not only think of businessmen, who are busy spending their day at the office or running around to meetings and then have evening commitments straight after, but also of gentlemen looking for garments that fit any occasion.”
The Milanese house, which is known for its magpie mix of color and print, has always catered to those looking for an alternative to sober salaryman suits. In Etro’s book, paisley is a neutral best paired with plaid and a shock of saffron or plum. The 24 Hour Jacket marries that knack for eclecticism with a deft hand for construction. Beneath its bohemian gadabout surface, Etro is still, at heart, a reverent Italian tailor.
The 24 Hour Jacket’s biggest point of differentiation is its bones: one of the brand’s most popular single-breasted silhouettes, with either a notch or peaked lapel, reconfigured in unconstructed wool-cotton jersey. The flexible, unrestricted fabric—most often associated with T-shirts and casualwear—lends the jacket an inherent sense of ease. As Kean explains: “It’s like a sweater tailored into a jacket.”
But of course, comfort only counts towards some of what the modern man’s wardrobe requires. If that was all that was needed to look good in any setting, we’d all stock up on sweatshirts and call it a day. The trick is making comfort look polished, which the 24 Hour Jacket achieves thanks to the brand’s mastery with prints. The jacket, which is available alone as a sport coat or as part of a full suit, is available in ten of Etro’s signature patterns, from the house favorite paisley to gun checks and camouflage—even a demure stripe. Because of the technical skill with which these fabrics were printed, the easygoing jersey looks as elegant as a super 180s wool.
The various designs may lean more or less towards one end of the formal-casual spectrum, but there are options that bridge the gap for most any taste. After all, one man’s daring is another’s average Tuesday. In any print, the 24 Hour Jacket is something of a sartorial Swiss army knife: from midday meetings to cocktail hour to Sunday brunch, it’ll always come in handy. If this anything-goes new world order has you in an existential style crisis, we’d suggest following Kean’s lead: “A T-shirt and jacket is part of my everyday uniform—I usually like to pair them with denim or contrasting pants. Less frequently am I into suits.”