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It’s hard to argue that an article of clothing as ubiquitous as the white tee is having a moment. But thanks to Jeremy Allen White’s portrayal of the damaged, perpetually T-shirt clad Chicago chef Carmy Berzatto on the recent FX hit The Bear, that simplest of clothing items is garnering new interest.
This is not, of course, the first time that the nation has fallen for the white tee—or the star wearing it. While originally manufactured for the US Navy as the top portion of a two-piece underwear set referred to collectively as “skivvies,” sailors and soldiers took to wearing the tee alone over their regulation chinos, and in civilian life, denim. But it took notable performances of a few young movies star, namely James Dean in 1951’s Rebel Without a Cause and Marlon Brando in 1955’s A Streetcar Named Desire, to turn the simple garment into a symbol of youth culture at home and Americana abroad.
The white tee continues to enjoy icon status today, both in its more contemporary iterations and the vintage-inspired loopwheel tees that are knit on antique machinery to give the fabric a stretchy feel and a seamless construction. We’ve collected plenty of examples of both below, along with some more unusual outliers. Read on to find your next go-to tee.
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Buck Mason Field-Spec Cotton Heavy Tee
Image Credit: Buck Mason Proving that you can make a short-sleeved tee with the cooler months in mind, Buck Mason constructed its “Field-Spec” T-shirt from a substantial rugby-weight cotton. Vitally, the heavyweight fabric has been washed to promote a softer feel.
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Drake’s Cotton Crew Neck Hiking T-Shirt
Image Credit: Drake’s Does an off-white tee still count as a white tee? While we ponder this philosophical quandary, direct your attention to this hiking-inspired cotton jersey crewneck from Drake’s in an appealing shade of “antique white.”
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Todd Snyder Made in L.A. Homespun Slub Pocket T-Shirt
Image Credit: Todd Snyder Few things are more all-American than a fitted pocket tee—and fittingly, Todd Snyder manufactures its own version in Los Angeles. Slubby cotton jersey and a button-through pocket help it stand out from the pack.
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Loro Piana Cotton-Silk T-Shirt
Image Credit: MyTheresa The Italian label’s luxury approach cuts no corners, even when its subject is the humble white T-shirt. Its take is made from a matte blend of jersey and silk, which might look like any other tee from a distance—but feels entirely different once you slip it on.
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James Perse Recycled Lotus Jersey Pocket Tee
Image Credit: James Perse This tee from James Perse is easy on the eyes and the environment, thanks to the recycled high-twist cotton jersey used to construct it. The designer’s touch is evident in considered details like a reinforced neckline and a chest pocket.
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RRL Jersey V-Neck Tee
Image Credit: Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren—a man who surely knows his way around a white T-shirt—offers this V-neck iteration through his nostalgic RRL label. Its vintage-inspired details include a tubular construction that eliminates the need for seams, and a combed cotton jersey that’s been washed for a broken-in feel.
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Smock Big Pocket Tee
Image Credit: Mohawk General Store Some names say it all: Smock’s Big Pocket Tee is indeed oversized and features a larger-than-average pocket at the chest. But what the title doesn’t cover is that it’s made in Los Angeles from silky smooth combed cotton.
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Turnbull & Asser Davey Cotton T-Shirt
Image Credit: Turnbull & Asser Esteemed shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser has turned its eye to the white tee, and the result is made in England from fine-gauge jersey. Sure, you could layer it below one of T&A’s bespoke duds, but it’s too good to be hidden—wear it on its own with a pair of well-loved jeans.
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Merz B Schwanen 215 Men’s Loopwheeled T-Shirt, 8.6oz Classic Fit
Image Credit: Merz B Schwanen Identified as the T-shirt sported by Jeremy Allen White in The Bear, Merz B Schwanen’s 215 is enjoying a newfound relevance. Aside from its sudden pop culture cachet, there’s also the matter of its organic cotton fabric, loopwheeled construction and made-in-Germany provenance.
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Jil Sander Plus 3 Pack Cotton T-Shirt
Image Credit: Luisa Via Roma The white tee lends itself to being bought in bulk—but you can do better than Costco. In particular, consider restocking your wardrobe with this three-pack of organic cotton T-shirts from the minimalist maestros at Jil Sander.
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The Real McCoy’s Loopwheel Athletic T-Shirt
Image Credit: The Armoury Cult Japanese brand The Real McCoy’s built its reputation on making painstaking reproductions of mid-century American clothing. The white T-shirt did not escape its attention, and its version is made from loopwheeled cotton in a classic cut.