British-born menswear designer Simon Spurr has an enviable personal style. The good-looking 44-year-old projects an air of elegance and comfort in his signature neatly tailored jackets, slim trousers or jeans, and luxe T-shirts. Never one to follow trends or go to extremes, he won’t be found in cropped trousers, tight jackets, or messy shirts. Feeling and looking refined yet at ease is something Spurr has mastered over his many years designing menswear for notable brands including Yves Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, and his eponymous marque. Now he’s applying that sense of how men want to dress to the Eidos collection, a new younger-leaning brand under the refined Isaia umbrella.
As the newly appointed creative director of Eidos—his first collection under the name is in stores this month—Spurr is giving Neapolitan tailoring a more contemporary vision though a mix of garments and separates in a range of sublime textures, warm colors, and slightly modified silhouettes. That look is best expressed in the two-button, notch-lapel Balthazar flannel jacket (ranging from $995 to $1,995), in hues like rich tobacco styled with the likes of a pink cotton shirt and burgundy flannel pants.
Spurr says the widespread use of subtle geometric patterns and textures, like the subtle purple-and-black shadow plaid that adorns the wool-and-mohair suit shown here, was inspired by one of his favorite artists, Sol Lewitt: “There is mathematics and precision to [Lewitt’s] work in the same way there is mathematics and precision in tailoring.”
This type of calculated approach makes all the more room for Spurr to play with subtle, unexpected details—think slick belts done in black lizard-leather complete with rock-and-roll chain detailing or chunky patent-leather hiker boots, both of which he’s paired with everything from the collections’ sharpest suits to cozy navy shearling-fronted bomber jackets. Your father’s Italian tailoring, this is not.